Begitu melihat area utama Stupa Swayambhunath di Kathmandu Nepal, mungkin ada yang berseru, “Wah kok padat dan ramai amat ya....” Jarak antara stupa, pilar, tempat puja, jejeran roda doa dan objek religi lainnya memang sangat dekat-dekat, belum lagi lapak suvenir yang nyelip di mana-mana. Ditambah masih ada proses perbaikan akibat gempa tahun 2015. Kesan crowded tak akan terhindarkan. Apalagi saat Waisak, hari raya utama umat Buddha, salah satu situs religi tertua di Nepal ini tambah ramai oleh peziarah.
Swayambhunath yang dibuka 24 jam dan memberlakukan tiket masuk NPR 200 untuk wisatawan asing ini adalah objek wajib kunjung kalau kita ke Nepal, terutama Kathmandu, ibu kotanya. Nggak afdol lah kalau nggak ke sini. Apalagi Swayambhunath merupakan Situs Warisan Dunia UNESCO sejak 1979.
Baca juga: "Himalayan Range Bukan Cuma Mount Everest"
Tapi nggak usah memaksa diri untuk mengamati dan melihat detil setiap struktur yang ada. Cukup melakukan dua hal: mengagumi stupa raksasanya yang berwarna putih dan pucuknya berlapis emas, serta memandang Lembah Kathmandu utuh dari pelatarannya (disarankan saat musim gugur, paling jernih langitnya).
O ya, tambahan satu lagi: kalau nemu aksesoris atau suvenir apa pun di sini yang menarik hati, coba tawar dan beli saja kalau memang cocok. Karena bentuk atau jenis yang sama belum tentu bisa ditemukan di area Thamel, surga belanjanya Kathmandu.
KISAH LEMBAH KATHMANDU YANG DULUNYA DANAU
Posisi Swayambhunath di puncak bukit, dipercaya dulunya adalah pulau di tengah danau maha luas yang mengering dan menjadi Lembah Kathmandu. Di Lembah Kathmandu sekarang ini terdapat Kota Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, Lalitpur, Kirtipur, Madhyapur Thimi.
Menurut Swayambhu Purana (manuskrip Buddhis tentang asal muasal dan perkembangan Lembah Kathmandu), sekitar 2.000 tahun lalu seluruh permukaan lembah tadinya adalah danau yang amat luas, dan banyak tumbuh teratai di atasnya. Dari teratai ini terpancar cahaya yang berkilauan. Sehingga banyak orang datang untuk melihat cahaya ini yang mereka percaya akan menuntun mereka mencapai pencerahan. Bodhisatva Manjushri, dari mata batinnya melihat hal ini, lalu ia pun pergi menghormat pada teratai yang bercahaya itu. Ia berpikir, kalau nggak ada air danau, teratai itu akan lebih mudah dikunjungi para peziarah. Jadi dengan menggunakan pedangnya ia memotong ngarai di pegunungan yang mengelilingi danau sehingga air danau mengalir keluar hingga kering dan terbentuklah Lembah Kathmandu. Kemudian teratai tersebut pun menjadi bukit dan cahayanya menjadi Stupa Swayambhunath. Makanya nama tempat ini Swayambhu yang dalam bahasa Nepal artinya “muncul atau tercipta dengan sendirinya”.
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KAPAN DIBANGUNNYA, TAK ADA YANG TAHU
Tak ada yang tahu pasti berapa usia Stupa Swayambhunath. Berdasarkan catatan sejarah, stupa raksasa ini sudah dijadikan tempat ziarah umat Buddha sejak abad ke-5. Ada juga yang menyebutkan stupa ini dibangun oleh kakek buyut Raja Manadeva (464-505), yakni Raja Vrsadeva sekitar awal abad ke-5.
Raja Ashoka dikabarkan pernah mengunjungi situs ini abad ke-3 SM dan ia sempat membangun sebuah kuil di puncaknya tapi kemudian rusak. Jadi dipercaya situs ini sudah ada sebelum abad ke-5, lama sebelum kedatangan Buddhisme di Lembah Kathmandu. Yang jelas pada abad ke-13 stupa ini menjadi pusat Buddhisme yang penting.
Dibangun belakangan pada abad ke-17 oleh Raja Pratap Malla di sebelah stupa utama, adalah kuil Hindu untuk memuja Dewi Harati. Kuil ini berbentuk pagoda dari batu bata kecil dan menjadi kuil yang sangat populer di kalangan kaum wanita yang mencari berkah bagi anak-anaknya. Dewi Harati memang dikenal sebagai dewi pelindung anak-anak.
Jadi jangan bingung kalau di sekitar stupa utama banyak kuil-kuil kecil, ruang-ruang pemujaan dewa-dewi Hindu dan objek-objek religi Hindu lainnya. Dan Swayambhunath pun menjadi tujuan ziarah baik umat Buddha maupun umat Hindu.
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Pagi-pagi sekali saat komplek ini masih diselimuti kabut, banyak peziarah yang datang untuk menguncarkan mantera sambil memutar roda doa dan melaksanakan puja. Banyak yang melakukan pradaksina atau memutari stupa searah jarum jam. Bendera-bendera doa juga terlihat banyak digantung-gantung, menambah semarak suasana.
SIMBOLISASI STUPA
- Bagian stupa paling dominan tentulah badannya yang berbentuk kubah besar berwarna putih dengan aksen kuning yang melambangkan dunia.
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- Di atas kubah ada struktur kubus dengan empat sisi berlapis emas yang digambari mata Buddha memandang ke bawah --sama seperti di Boudhanath Stupa. Kedua pasang mata ini melambangkan kebijaksaaan dan kewelas-asihan. Di atas di antara kedua mata ada titik yang adalah mata ketiga, mata spiritual Buddha. Sedangkan di bawah sepasang mata ada bentuk melingkar-lingkar seperti hidung yang merupakan aksara Nepal ek (artinya angka 1), melambangkan persatuan semua aspek sebagai satu-satunya jalan menuju pencerahan melalui ajaran Buddha.
- Di bagian atas luar di keempat sisi kubus ada semacam mahkota berupa lempengan segilima yang di permukaannya ada ukiran timbul 5 Buddha. 5 Buddha tersebut adalah Vairochana, Akshobhya, Ratna Sambhava, Amitabha dan Amoghsiddhi, yang melambangkan 5 kualitas kebijaksanaan Buddha.
- Di atas kubus, di balik lempengan segilima, terdapat 13 tingkatan gelang-gelang yang membentuk kerucut atau terlihat juga seperti spiral. Melambangkan bahwa semua makhluk hidup harus melewati 13 tingkatan realisasi spiritual untuk mencapai pencerahan, nirwana.
- Di bagian paling atas ada gajur, semacam pinnacle atau topi kerucut yang menaungi ruang kecil yang memuat banyak artefak di dalamnya.
Menarik bahwa tidak ada gambar telinga karena dikatakan, Buddha tak tertarik mendengarkan puji-pujian kepadanya.
DIKENAL JUGA SEBAGAI KUIL KERA
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Swayambhunath dikenal juga sebagai Kuil Kera sejak 1970-an karena banyak kera berkeliaran di sini. Kera-kera ini dianggap suci, karena menurut legenda, mereka ini tadinya adalah kutu di rambut panjangnya Manjushri. Kutu-kutu ini bertansformasi menjadi kera saat Manjushri memotong ngarai di Lembah Kathmandu.
Baca juga: "Cara Paling Gampang Melihat Mount Everest: Duduk Manis di Nagarkot"
BERTAHAN DARI GEMPA
Hingga kini beberapa bangunan belum seratus persen rampung direnovasi setelah gempa hebat mengguncang Nepal tahun 2015 (25 April dan susulan 12 Mei). Untung, stupa utamanya sih boleh dibilang tidak rusak terkena gempa, hanya lecet-lecet di bagian permukaan saja. Tapi bagian lain banyak yang rusak.
Sebelum gempa, Stupa Swayambhunath tentunya juga mengalami serangkaian renovasi dan restorasi. Renovasi pertamanya dimulai tahun 1921. Bagian pagodannya dilapis lagi menggunakan 20 kg emas. Renovasi terakhir didanai oleh Tibetan Nyingma Meditation Center di California, dimulai Juni 2008, dan selesai Mei 2010.
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AKSES DUA TANGGA
Ada dua akses untuk mencapai lokasi stupa. Bisa naik dari tangga timur yang lebih curam, terdiri dari 365 anak tangga, langsung menuju stupa. Bisa juga naik dari tangga barat yang lebih pendek. Dari sini kita akan melihat dulu 3 patung Buddha raksasa dan taman dengan kolam yang dikeramatkan.
Lokasi Swayambhunath dapat ditemputh berkendara selama 10 menit dari area Thamel di Kathmandu, berjarak sekitar 3-4 km ke arah barat.
Cara ke Kathmandu silakan baca di sini.
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