
Salah satu sudut Kota Lama Semarang
Gocapan alias “Gowes Cari Sarapan” adalah aktivitas baru yang menarik, setelah Tol Trans Jawa jadi. Kini, Trippers bisa mengendarai mobil dari Jakarta ke Semarang dengan santai sambil membawa sepeda lipat di bagasi. Tidak perlu pesan sarapan di hotel! Set alarm di jam 6 pagi, lalu siapkan sepeda. Dan mulailah jelajah kota dengan sepeda. Niscaya kamu merasa sehat karena sudah olah raga! Asal jangan banyakan sarapan daripada gowesnya…
Baca juga: "Mari Menjelajah Cagar Budaya Nasional Kota Semarang Lama"
Kali ini saya memulai rute dari Hotel Quest di Plampitan, Semarang. Meskipun di sebelah hotel ini ada warung Soto Bokoran yang termasyur itu, saya memutuskan untuk meletakkan sarapan soto di bagian akhir rute ini. Dari Plampitan saya mengikuti GPS (diset untuk pejalan kaki) melalui bagian dari Jalan MT Haryono (Mataram) sampai ke Kawasan Kota Lama Semarang. Saya masuk dari samping Bank Mandiri, membelok ke kiri, di mana jalanan mendadak berubah drastis: lampu jalan berdesain kuno nampak di kiri kanan jalan, trottoir yang bersih rapi, dengan tiang-tiang pembatas dan rantai yang menjaganya bersih. Saya tidak akan heran kalau tiba-tiba melihat satu-dua sinyo Belanda di sini, bak zaman kolonial dulu. Benar-benar seperti mesin waktu!
Lampu jalan berdesain kuno di kiri kanan jalan
Saya ingat betul perkataan Ibu Iin dari Disbudpar Kota Semarang dalam salah satu pertemuan kami. “Kalau Kawasan Pandanaran kami rawat seperti merawat anak gadis. Tapi kalau Kota Lama kami rawat seperti merawat ibu sendiri: ditanya dulu apa yang pantas dan dirasa perlu, baru kami lakukan…” katanya. Dan lihatlah hasilnya! Sebagai anak orang Pekalongan yang sejak kecil bolak-balik Semarang, saya menyaksikan sendiri bagaimana kawasan ini yang dulunya jelek, tidak aman, sarang penyamun, kini menjadi luar biasa! Kalau saya bilang ini di Amsterdam, orang pun akan percaya. Lihat sudut cantik dengan pemandangan ke Gereja Blenduk, atau sudut Cafe Spiegel yang elegan. Dengan sepeda, kamu bisa menikmati semuanya dengan nyaman, dan kalau perlu kopi, mampirlah ke salah satu warung dan pesan segera!
Gereja Blenduk
Dari sini saya mengarahkan GPS ke Soto Selan (Jl. Depok No. 36D). Rasa lapar mulai menyerang ketika semangkuk kecil soto hadir di meja stainless steel yang sudah saya semprot desinfektan. Aksesoris wajib di sini: ampela goreng! Celupkan di kuah panas, nikmati sensasi ampela yang empuk dan gurih. Kehangatan kuah bening lembut, dengan aroma bawang putih goreng, membuat hati langsung gembira. Paduan soun, suwiran ayam, nasi, tauge, begitu harmonis mengisi perut yang kosong di pagi hari. Mak nyus!
Soto Selan
Dari sini, saya arahkan GPS kembali ke arah Plampitan sambil melalui Pecinan Semarang. Dengan sepeda kita bisa menikmati gang-gang pinggir sungai yang cantik, sudut-sudut kelenteng yang unik, serta bangunan-bangunan kuno yang menarik. Kesempatan foto di depan Patung Zheng He (Cheng Ho) di Kelenteng Tay Kak Sie, jangan dilewatkan! Pelataran yang cantik, desain kelenteng dengan warna-warni unik, serta Lumpia Gang Lombok di dekat situ bisa dijadikan alasan untuk rehat sejenak.
Patung Zheng He (Cheng Ho) di Kelenteng Tay Kak Sie
Berfoto di depan patung Zheng He (Cheng Ho)
Setelah puas menjelajah Wilayah Pecinan, GPS saya arahkan pada garis finish: Soto Bokoran (Jl. Plampitan No. 55) yang berjualan sejak 1949. Untung tidak terlalu ramai, dan aksesoris wajib di sini ada dua: perkedel kentang dan onde-onde. Onde-onde di sini sepertinya titipan orang, tetapi kelembutan kulit dan legitnya adonan isi membuat saya selalu memesan kalau di sini. Perkedel kentangnya nyaris setara dengan “Perkedel Bondon ala Bandung”: kulit renyah, kentang yang lembut dengan bongkahan kecil. Kuah sotonya di sini lebih berbumbu, terasa daun bawang dan aroma herbalnya. Mungkin sama dengan Kota Lama Semarang: kalau Soto Selan bak gadis muda yang segar cantik, Soto Bokoran lebih mirip seorang ibu yang terpancar aroma kecantikannya karena bijak dan setia. Dua-duanya mak nyus!
Soto Bokoran Semarang
Perkedel dan tempe goreng di Soto Bokoran
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Tentang penulis: Harry Nazarudin atau biasa disapa Harnaz adalah salah satu pendiri Komunitas Jalansutra, penulis kuliner yang telah menulis buku Kimia Kuliner, dan bersama Bondan Winarno (kini telah almarhum) dan Lidia Tanod menulis buku 100 Mak Nyus. Harnaz juga memiliki channel Youtube “Kimiasutra” –Menjelaskan Kimia dalam Bahasa Manusia. Buku terbarunya yang diluncurkan tanggal 25 Maret 2021 adalah Nasgor, Makanan Sejuta Mamat.
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