LES IS MORE! MORE! MORE! (BAGIAN 1 - MAKAN SIANG) 2020-12-26 23:00

Cumi masak kesune cekuh

 

“AWAS YA KALO MAKANANNYA GAK ENAK!” kata pang-enam (sebutan khusus untuk istri saya) sambil melotot manja, pada saat kami tiba di Warung Sukun, Desa Les, Tejakula, Bali. Maklum, kita baru saja menempuh perjalanan “ekstrim” --hampir 4 jam berkendara dari Jimbaran ke sini, hanya untuk makan siang! Tapi, ini adalah misi.

 

Pak Bondan almarhum mengarahkan saya bertemu Chef Yudhi alias Gede Buldog, yang kini juga berstatus Jro Mangku, ketika menulis buku 100 Mak Nyus Bali. Sejak itu kami berteman baik. Ketika Warung Sunset Chef Yudhi terlihat sudah lama tutup, saya kepikiran mengunjungi teman saya ini, untuk memberinya semangat di masa yang sulit untuk Bali. Tetapi, rupanya Bro Yudhi selalu kelebihan semangat!

 

“Selamat datang di Desa, Mas!” katanya, setelah kami diarahkan ke Dapur Bali Mula. Seperti mimpi yang jadi kenyataan, saya bisa melihat semua yang di IG Live: dapur terbuka plus dua rumah bale kecil, satu sebagai dapur utama, dengan tungku bertitik tiga: satu merebus, satu memanggang sate lilit, satu memanggang pepes. “Filosofinya: lahir, hidup, dan mati, semuanya dialiri energi api tungku!” katanya. Ciamik

 

Tungku bertitik tiga

 

Namun, sebelum terlalu asyik dokumentasi, makan dulu! Chef Yudhi langsung menyiapkan hidangan dalam piring saji tanah liat di atas meja kayu jati utuh. Waini! Babak penentuan, pikir saya.

 

Harnaz, Chef Yudhi dan hidangan di atas meja kayu jati utuh

 

Kalau sambal matah tidak usah disebut lagi --the best! Tapi yang lainnya tak kalah maut: gurita panggang bumbu serapah, lawar gurita daun cabe puyang, cumi masak kesune cekuh, sate lilit ikan, pepes ikan barakuda, dan sup ikan barakuda. 

 

“Baru tadi saya dapat gurita, ini fresh, Mas!” katanya. Bumbu serapah berbasis santan kental, mirip kuah glabed ala Tegal atau sate srepeh Lasem tapi warnanya kuning. Guritanya segar, sama sekali tidak amis, sashimi grade berpadu cantik dengan srepeh yang herbal aromatik. Mantap! Lawarnya very very sophisticated: berbasis kelapa taktak (iris) yang dibakar, irisan gurita, kacang kedelai, dan daun cabe puyang. Ada aroma tipis lempuyang, tapi overall tidak overpowering. Bumbunya garang, banyak, tapi nggak serem kayak kerumunan kopid, lebih mirip penari Kecak yang bertato tapi menari harmonis! Dicampur nasi panas, ai ai sedap nian!

 

Gurita panggang bumbu serapah

 

Lawar gurita daun cabe puyang

 

Sup ikannya pun tak kalah sedap, berbumbu base genep. Chef Yudhi paham betul, kuah itu penting! Kok dagingnya bisa juicy nan lembut? “Ini ikan barakuda, Mas!” katanya. Oalaaaah demikian pula pepes ikannya: bumbu kuning kunyit, daging ikan yang moist dan tidak overcooked, menjadi koentji!

 

Pepes ikan barakuda

 

Sisanya saya makan terakhir: cumi masak kesune cekuh (kencur bawang putih), bentuknya mirip cumi tinta Pekalongan tapi warnanya muda. Cuminya endut lutu kek sotong restoran Padang versi mini. Fresh, segar, cakep! Sate lilit? Ah, ini mah biasa, pikir saya. Lalu saya ambil sebatang. Wow! “Ini tanpa tepung, Mas, ikan semua!” kata Chef Yudhi. Tak lama kemudian, 9 tusuk habis kita sikat! Tiba-tiba pang-enam menoel saya, membuat saya kaget. “Cobain ini, Say! Cumi goreng tepungnya anak-anak pun cocolannya enak!” katanya, tinggal sisa manjanya: melototnya sudah lenyap!

 

Sate lilit ikan

 

Bukan Chef Yudhi namanya kalo course-nya tidak lengkap. “Bla bla bla Daluman bla bla!” kata Chef kepada timnya dalam bahasa daerah, saya cuman ngerti satu kata: DALUMAN! Alis cincau hijau. “Coba cicipin, Mas!” katanya. Cincau hijau dari pohon cincau yang daunnya tidak lebar, dibubuhi santan dicampur kelapa bakar, dibubuhi juruh alias gula lontar cair berwarna hitam. Aih, cakep! Rasanya gimana? Mirip apa ya? Sesuatu yang familiar. Mengingatkan saya pada masa kecil saya di Bandung. Jalanan menanjak, arah Lembang. Pasar Pamoyanan. Pasar Basalamah. Tapi apa ya? Duh, saya lupa!

 

Daluman (cincau hijau)

 

“Sudah jangan dipikirin, Mas! Cobain ini saja!” kata Chef Yudhi, sambil menuang larutan bening dalam sloki. Wow, inilah arak Desa Les yang terkenal itu! Saya cicipi araknya, mula-mula yang biasa. Walaupun kadar alkoholnya lebih dari 40%, tapi sangat smooth, bahkan pang-enam pun mau mencicipi. Lalu saya cicipi yang aroma mangga, cocok untuk es krim. Yang aroma kelapa, cocok untuk di pinggir pantai!

 

Tiba-tiba saya menemukan asosiasi yang dari tadi dicari. “SERABI!” teriak saya bak Archimedes teriak Eureka! Ya: aroma santan kelapa, plus smoky dari kelapa bakar, plus manis gula lontar dengan keasaman menonjol, aromanya mirip serabi Enhaii yang dipanggang arang dan diberi kinca. Ajaib! “Rupanya arak itu bisa melancarkan memori otak ya, Mas!” kata Chef Yudhi. Setuju! Daluman ini, rasa dan aromanya alami dan unik!

 

Foto keluarga di Dapur Bali Mula

 

“Mau lihat lokasi pembuatan gula, Mas?” Chef Yudhi menawarkan. Menarik! Bersambung ya di bagian 2...

 

Untuk pemesanan tempat, bisa menghubungi DM via Akun Instagram @warungsunset_chef_yudi

 

Tentang penulis: Harry Nazarudin atau biasa disapa Harnaz adalah salah satu pendiri Komunitas Jalansutra, penulis kuliner yang telah menulis buku Kimia Kuliner, dan bersama Bondan Winarno (kini telah almarhum) dan Lidia Tanod menulis buku 100 Mak Nyus. Harnaz juga memiliki channel Youtube “Kimiasutra” –Menjelaskan Kimia dalam Bahasa Manusia.

 

 

Teks & Foto: Harnaz Tagore (Harry Nazarudin)
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