Cumi masak kesune cekuh
“AWAS YA KALO MAKANANNYA GAK ENAK!” kata pang-enam (sebutan khusus untuk istri saya) sambil melotot manja, pada saat kami tiba di Warung Sukun, Desa Les, Tejakula, Bali. Maklum, kita baru saja menempuh perjalanan “ekstrim” --hampir 4 jam berkendara dari Jimbaran ke sini, hanya untuk makan siang! Tapi, ini adalah misi.
Pak Bondan almarhum mengarahkan saya bertemu Chef Yudhi alias Gede Buldog, yang kini juga berstatus Jro Mangku, ketika menulis buku 100 Mak Nyus Bali. Sejak itu kami berteman baik. Ketika Warung Sunset Chef Yudhi terlihat sudah lama tutup, saya kepikiran mengunjungi teman saya ini, untuk memberinya semangat di masa yang sulit untuk Bali. Tetapi, rupanya Bro Yudhi selalu kelebihan semangat!
“Selamat datang di Desa, Mas!” katanya, setelah kami diarahkan ke Dapur Bali Mula. Seperti mimpi yang jadi kenyataan, saya bisa melihat semua yang di IG Live: dapur terbuka plus dua rumah bale kecil, satu sebagai dapur utama, dengan tungku bertitik tiga: satu merebus, satu memanggang sate lilit, satu memanggang pepes. “Filosofinya: lahir, hidup, dan mati, semuanya dialiri energi api tungku!” katanya. Ciamik!
Tungku bertitik tiga
Namun, sebelum terlalu asyik dokumentasi, makan dulu! Chef Yudhi langsung menyiapkan hidangan dalam piring saji tanah liat di atas meja kayu jati utuh. Waini! Babak penentuan, pikir saya.
Harnaz, Chef Yudhi dan hidangan di atas meja kayu jati utuh
Kalau sambal matah tidak usah disebut lagi --the best! Tapi yang lainnya tak kalah maut: gurita panggang bumbu serapah, lawar gurita daun cabe puyang, cumi masak kesune cekuh, sate lilit ikan, pepes ikan barakuda, dan sup ikan barakuda.
“Baru tadi saya dapat gurita, ini fresh, Mas!” katanya. Bumbu serapah berbasis santan kental, mirip kuah glabed ala Tegal atau sate srepeh Lasem tapi warnanya kuning. Guritanya segar, sama sekali tidak amis, sashimi grade berpadu cantik dengan srepeh yang herbal aromatik. Mantap! Lawarnya very very sophisticated: berbasis kelapa taktak (iris) yang dibakar, irisan gurita, kacang kedelai, dan daun cabe puyang. Ada aroma tipis lempuyang, tapi overall tidak overpowering. Bumbunya garang, banyak, tapi nggak serem kayak kerumunan kopid, lebih mirip penari Kecak yang bertato tapi menari harmonis! Dicampur nasi panas, ai ai sedap nian!
Gurita panggang bumbu serapah
Lawar gurita daun cabe puyang
Sup ikannya pun tak kalah sedap, berbumbu base genep. Chef Yudhi paham betul, kuah itu penting! Kok dagingnya bisa juicy nan lembut? “Ini ikan barakuda, Mas!” katanya. Oalaaaah demikian pula pepes ikannya: bumbu kuning kunyit, daging ikan yang moist dan tidak overcooked, menjadi koentji!
Pepes ikan barakuda
Sisanya saya makan terakhir: cumi masak kesune cekuh (kencur bawang putih), bentuknya mirip cumi tinta Pekalongan tapi warnanya muda. Cuminya endut lutu kek sotong restoran Padang versi mini. Fresh, segar, cakep! Sate lilit? Ah, ini mah biasa, pikir saya. Lalu saya ambil sebatang. Wow! “Ini tanpa tepung, Mas, ikan semua!” kata Chef Yudhi. Tak lama kemudian, 9 tusuk habis kita sikat! Tiba-tiba pang-enam menoel saya, membuat saya kaget. “Cobain ini, Say! Cumi goreng tepungnya anak-anak pun cocolannya enak!” katanya, tinggal sisa manjanya: melototnya sudah lenyap!
Sate lilit ikan
Bukan Chef Yudhi namanya kalo course-nya tidak lengkap. “Bla bla bla Daluman bla bla!” kata Chef kepada timnya dalam bahasa daerah, saya cuman ngerti satu kata: DALUMAN! Alis cincau hijau. “Coba cicipin, Mas!” katanya. Cincau hijau dari pohon cincau yang daunnya tidak lebar, dibubuhi santan dicampur kelapa bakar, dibubuhi juruh alias gula lontar cair berwarna hitam. Aih, cakep! Rasanya gimana? Mirip apa ya? Sesuatu yang familiar. Mengingatkan saya pada masa kecil saya di Bandung. Jalanan menanjak, arah Lembang. Pasar Pamoyanan. Pasar Basalamah. Tapi apa ya? Duh, saya lupa!
.jpg)
Daluman (cincau hijau)
“Sudah jangan dipikirin, Mas! Cobain ini saja!” kata Chef Yudhi, sambil menuang larutan bening dalam sloki. Wow, inilah arak Desa Les yang terkenal itu! Saya cicipi araknya, mula-mula yang biasa. Walaupun kadar alkoholnya lebih dari 40%, tapi sangat smooth, bahkan pang-enam pun mau mencicipi. Lalu saya cicipi yang aroma mangga, cocok untuk es krim. Yang aroma kelapa, cocok untuk di pinggir pantai!
Tiba-tiba saya menemukan asosiasi yang dari tadi dicari. “SERABI!” teriak saya bak Archimedes teriak Eureka! Ya: aroma santan kelapa, plus smoky dari kelapa bakar, plus manis gula lontar dengan keasaman menonjol, aromanya mirip serabi Enhaii yang dipanggang arang dan diberi kinca. Ajaib! “Rupanya arak itu bisa melancarkan memori otak ya, Mas!” kata Chef Yudhi. Setuju! Daluman ini, rasa dan aromanya alami dan unik!
Foto keluarga di Dapur Bali Mula
“Mau lihat lokasi pembuatan gula, Mas?” Chef Yudhi menawarkan. Menarik! Bersambung ya di bagian 2...
Untuk pemesanan tempat, bisa menghubungi DM via Akun Instagram @warungsunset_chef_yudi
Tentang penulis: Harry Nazarudin atau biasa disapa Harnaz adalah salah satu pendiri Komunitas Jalansutra, penulis kuliner yang telah menulis buku Kimia Kuliner, dan bersama Bondan Winarno (kini telah almarhum) dan Lidia Tanod menulis buku 100 Mak Nyus. Harnaz juga memiliki channel Youtube “Kimiasutra” –Menjelaskan Kimia dalam Bahasa Manusia.
I adore studying and I believe this website got some truly utilitarian stuff on it! https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vRtibmpCS7wM_-WvfYr2SepBwY3eLiAxFLDO9nURETUwmInbx-X4nOk1Q7a8wsJTXdEeJ4yOhAP-N9O/pub
2021-06-13Hey there would you mind stating which blog platform you're working with? I'm looking to start my own blog in the near future but I'm having a tough time making a decision between BlogEngine/Wordpress/B2evolution and Drupal. The reason I ask is because your design seems different then most blogs and I'm looking for something unique. P.S My apologies for being off-topic but I had to ask! https://trade.edu.vn/loi-ngo
2021-05-20This piece of writing provides clear idea in support of the new visitors of blogging, that actually how to do blogging and site-building. https://aipcrquebec2010.org/nhung-luu-y-nhat-dinh-phai-biet-khi-su-dung-tu-nau-com
2021-05-20Hi! I just wish to give you a big thumbs up for the excellent information you've got here on this post. I will be coming back to your website for more soon. https://altcommtechniques.com/nhan-dinh-soi-keo-giai-vdqg-mexico-giua-pachuca-va-santos-laguna/
2021-05-18Fantastic beat ! I wish to apprentice at the same time as you amend your site, how could i subscribe for a weblog web site? The account helped me a appropriate deal. I had been a little bit acquainted of this your broadcast offered brilliant clear concept https://keowin365.com/de-3-cang-an-bao-nhieu-p1948.html
2021-05-17I like this site it's a master piece! Glad I observed this on google. https://keowin365.com/
2021-05-04Why viewers still make use of to read news papers when in this technological globe all is existing on web? https://keowin365.com/
2021-05-03As a Newbie, I am continuously exploring online for articles that can help me. Thank you https://bannhabandat.vn/bi-quyet-soi-keo-du-doan-bong-da-hom-nay-tu-cac-chuyen-gia/
2021-05-02Keep up the superb work, I read few content on this site and I believe that your site is rattling interesting and has got lots of wonderful information. https://keowin365.com/dien-vien-jav-p1953.html
2021-04-23I?m impressed, I must say. Rarely do I encounter a blog that?s both equally educative and entertaining, and let me tell you, you have hit the nail on the head. The issue is an issue that too few men and women are speaking intelligently about. I'm very happy that I stumbled across this in my hunt for something regarding this. https://thoidaingaynay.com/kinh-nghiem-nuoi-lo-cap-khung-3-ngay-247-ty-le-vao-bo-sieu-cao/
2021-04-19Hello it's me, I am also visiting this site daily, this web site is genuinely pleasant and the viewers are really sharing nice thoughts. https://thoidaithongtin.com/top-5-dien-vien-phim-x-nhat-ban-voi-ve-dep-mong-manh-duoc-yeu-thich-nhat/
2021-04-18It's in fact very difficult in this busy life to listen news on TV, so I only use the web for that purpose, and take the newest information. https://cangtiensa.com/soi-keo-tran-dau-gladbach-vs-freiburg-01h30-ngay-04-04-2021
2021-04-11After looking over a few of the articles on your site, I truly appreciate your technique of writing a blog. I book-marked it to my bookmark site list and will be checking back in the near future. Please visit my web site as well and let me know how you feel. https://ufagoalbet.com
2021-04-08Enjoyed looking at this, very good stuff, thank you. https://alternativeto.net/user/maivanhocictu/
2021-04-07If you wish for to take a good deal from this piece of writing then you have to apply such strategies to your won weblog. https://kenhthongtinmuaban.com/con-sau-may-mo-thay-sau-la-diem-bao-gi-tot-hay-xau/
2021-04-02Woah! I'm really enjoying the template/theme of this blog. It's simple, yet effective. A lot of times it's hard to get that "perfect balance" between usability and visual appearance. I must say you've done a very good job with this. Additionally, the blog loads very quick for me on Opera. Exceptional Blog! https://makemoneysoccer.com
2021-03-26Appreciating the persistence you put into your site and in depth information you offer. It's awesome to come across a blog every once in a while that isn't the same old rehashed information. Excellent read! I've saved your site and I'm including your RSS feeds to my Google account. https://xemtaiday.com/huong-dan-cach-tai-binh-xap-xam-chi-tiet-tren-dien-thoai-chi-tiet/
2021-03-13Nice blog! Is your theme custom made or did you download it from somewhere? A design like yours with a few simple tweeks would really make my blog jump out. Please let me know where you got your theme. Appreciate it https://mustslot.com
2021-03-06Hi would you mind letting me know which hosting company you're utilizing? I've loaded your blog in 3 completely different internet browsers and I must say this blog loads a lot faster then most. Can you suggest a good web hosting provider at a honest price? Kudos, I appreciate it! https://penaltyfooter.com
2021-03-05This blog was... how do I say it? Relevant!! Finally I have found something which helped me. Thanks! https://penzu.com/p/97378cb9
2021-03-01I’ll immediately take hold of your rss feed as I can not to find your email subscription link or newsletter service. Do you’ve any? Please let me know in order that I may subscribe. Thanks. This is a topic which is close to my heart... Cheers! Where are your contact details though? Hello there! This blog post couldn't be written any better! Looking at this post reminds me of my previous roommate! He constantly kept talking about this. I am going to forward this article to him. Pretty sure he will have a great read. Thank you for sharing! http://newground.com
2021-01-15