BISTIK ALA SULTAN FIORENTINA DI MANTOVA ITALIA 2022-09-14 21:00

Bistecca ala Fiorentina dengan daging Italia

 

Ya, ada bistik sultan! Asalnya dari Italia, negara pembuat Gucci, Versace, Ferarri, dan Lamborghini. Tepatnya Kota Florence alias Fiorentina, tempat kelahiran keluarga Gucci. Inilah yang menjadi primadona di 31 Ristorante, Mantova. Dari penampakannya sudah terlihat bahwa ini bukan trattoria (warung) atau pasticeria (warung pasta). Ini adalah ristorante, ciao bella! Bahkan restoran ini punya motto:

 

Acrobati del gusto, funamboli dei sapori. Per passione.”

 

“Berakrobat demi selera, berani meniti tali demi rasa. Untuk mencapai sempurna.”

 

Widih, mantap tenan!

 

Motto restorannya

 

Interior Osteria 31

 

Apa yang dipesan di sini? Bistecca ala Fiorentina tentu saja. Bukan satu porsi, tetapi dua! Inilah gunanya business dinner. Bistecca ala Fiorentina adalah hidangan khas di mana 500 gram daging T-bone dimasak dan disajikan sebagai steak dengan tulangnya. “Cara memanggangnya khusus: dengan suhu tinggi, 5 menit di satu sisi, 5 menit di sisi lainnya, dan 6-7 menit daging diberdirikan dan dipanaskan dari tulangnya!” kata teman menjelaskan. Wow, menarik! Dan dagingnya pun bukan daging biasa. Sudah dry age (disimpan dalam kondisi vakum) dari dua jenis sapi: sapi muda jantan Italia (vitellone) dan satu lagi dari Spanyol. Menarik!

 

Bistecca ala Fiorentina

 

Pertama-tama, pasta dulu. Sayangnya, tagliatelle isi labu tidak tersedia, sehingga saya memesan tagliatelle isi keju ricotta dan ham serta tagliatelle isi ragut atau daging giling. Tagliatelle, alias pangsit kalau di Bakmi Iyan 88, sebenarnya adalah bukti bahwa Italia sangat dipengaruhi oleh Jalur Sutera atau Silk Road. Bayangkan, bagaimana di sini bisa ditemukan pasta alias bakmi, yang teknologinya ditemukan di Tiongkok. Bahkan sampai pangsit pun ada! Jangan lupa, bahwa tujuan akhir Jalur Sutera adalah Roma. Saya pun mencicipi kedua jenis tagliatelle ini, yang rasanya jauh banget dari versi Bakmi Iyan. Di sini kulitnya tebal, dan isinya sangat kreatif. Keju ricotta yang lembut berpadu dengan irisan ham membawa rasa asin yang tajam namun sedap! Sementara ragut yang berwarna agak hitam karena dipanggang dulu, rasanya lebih gurih aroma daging. Dua-duanya sedap tapi porsinya kecil. Waduh, jangan-jangan ini dinner Barat versi porsi kecil…

 

Tagliatelle isi keju ricotta

 

Tagliatelle isi ragut

 

Ketika main course tiba, kekuatiran kami langsung sirna. Sebentuk T-bone raksasa tersaji di atas talenan, sudah diiris dan menunjukkan warna merah sempurna, terkembang cantik bak layar pinisi. Side dish-nya sederhana: kentang panggang dan tomat, serta garam untuk menaikkan rasa daging. Aih, ciamik! Bak warga Galia beneran, saya menggunakan pisau untuk mengambil sekerat daging. Lalu, taburi garam, dan iris lalu makan. Astaga! Tekstur dagingnya cantik --belum pernah ketemu lemari es! Hil yang mustahal kalau di Indonesia. Firm, tidak lembek, dan dry aging membuat serat kecil bertekstur seperti cendol. Garam, di sini berfungsi sebagai penyedap: lonjakan asinnya menaikkan aroma daging dan logam pada darah. Astaga, mak nyus!

 

Tekstur daging Italia dengan anggur merah

 

Hidangan pertama berlalu dengan cepat, lalu hidangan kedua datang: bistecca lagi, kali ini dengan daging dari Spanyol! Bentuknya sih mirip, tapi coba dicicip rasanya. Wow, beda jauh! Baru saya paham cara mengapresiasi rasa dagingnya. Daging Spanyol ini pernah ketemu lemari es sehingga lebih layu rasanya. Tapi, teksturnya berbeda: seratnya lebih halus, sehingga mirip agar-agar. Namun ada yang kurang: aromanya tidak sekuat daging vitellone ala Italia. Meskipun sudah ditambah garam, saya tetap bisa merasakan bedanya. Wow, keren banget!

 

Tekstur daging Spanyol

 

Berikutnya: dessert! Apa pilihannya? “Tiramisu, dan panna cotta rempah”. Panna cotta rempah? “Panna cotta yang diberi bubuk kunyit, lalu ditaburi dengan cayenne pepper di atasnya, kemudian dibubuhi karamel”. Astaga, ini soto apa dessert? Langsung saya pesan karena penasaran. Dan wow, rasanya betul-betul sebuah pencerahan! Dalam satu toples kaca, panna cotta lembut hadir berwarna kekuningan karena dicampur serbuk kunyit. Rasanya manis, tekstur lembut, dengan aroma kunyit lamat-lamat seperti aroma melati di malam hari. Sedap! Kemudian ada sedikit aroma pedas di atasnya, lalu karamel memberikan tendangan rasa manis dan asin yang memberikan perimbangan cantik untuk panna cotta yang lembut sekali rasanya. Sepeti makan jamu kunyit asin (bukan asem) dalam bentuk panna cotta. Jenius! Satu lagi bukti bahwa rempah kita dulunya dibawa ke Roma, Italia, sehingga di sini kita bisa menemukan jejaknya: kunyit, cayenne pepper, sampai cabe puyang! Dan meraciknya sebagai dessert memperkenalkan saya pada spektrum rasa baru yang belum pernah saya cicipi. Keren! Begini toh rasanya jadi Sultan ala Fiorentina!

 

Panna cotta dengan kunyit

 

Tekstur panna cotta kunyit

 

Osteria 31

Via G. Marconi

Buscoldo, Mantua, Italy

 

Tentang penulis: Harry Nazarudin atau biasa disapa Harnaz adalah salah satu pendiri Komunitas Jalansutra, penulis kuliner yang telah menulis buku Kimia Kuliner, dan bersama Bondan Winarno (kini telah almarhum) dan Lidia Tanod menulis buku 100 Mak Nyus. Harnaz juga memiliki channel Youtube “Kimiasutra” –Menjelaskan Kimia dalam Bahasa Manusia. Buku terbarunya yang diluncurkan tanggal 25 Maret 2021 adalah Nasgor, Makanan Sejuta Mamat.

 

 

Teks & Foto: Harnaz Tagore (Harry Nazarudin)
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